I first tasted lablabi at a hole-in-the-wall eatery tucked into a small side street in downtown Tunis. It was 9 on a weekday morning, and I'd woken before dawn to visit the thronged wholesale ...

“We have recipes that even date back to the Punic ... how the rest of the world makes it,” she says. “Dishes such as Lablabi, Mloukhia and even the famous couscous are so different and ...