If you visit the Chinatown location of 1915 Lanzhou ... of the noodle pulling in the open kitchen at the back. A chef rhythmically slaps and stretches dough and two giant pots of beef broth ...

My wife, Kiki, and I take turns monitoring and stirring the large metal pot on the hob, filled with clear consommé broth emitting that signature scent of Lanzhou beef noodle soup. The dish is ...