The family behind Jitlada, L.A.'s most influential Thai restaurant, is opening a Thai tea shop in Orange County.

Dishes are cooked as the chef envisions them, but sauces are on each table to add heat or spice as the diner wishes.

Take, for example, its Smooth King signature drink, which combines Hong Kong-style milk tea made from a 50-year-old recipe with honeycomb, tapioca pearls and a cheese cloud foam. Silk’s new ...