The brightest thing in the bowl was a scoop of glistening salmon roe on top, flanked by sliced scallions and a lemon wedge. After the noodles were gone, I chased down each remaining slippery orb ...

And, in another twist, a pile of salmon roe completes the dish atop a layer of creamy hollandaise. Eggs Benedict — a carbohydrate base below a layer of protein, followed by a poached egg ...