And at the centre of this revelation sits, it seems, birria. “Birria is a stew – almost a sort of soup,” says Zazueta, who hails from Ensenada, Baja California in northern Mexico.

He was hovering over a bowl of fish soup, when one crunched between his ... Moreno, the owner of a small fleet of Birria-Landia taco trucks, has been learning a lot about Flushing.

The birria can be eaten in a bowl like a soup, or in tacos or quesadillas (see Tip). You can make the adobo a day ahead. Heat a frying pan over a medium heat and toast the chillies for 15 seconds ...

Photo: Birria Landia Earlier this month, José Moreno was in Flushing when he tasted a Sichuan peppercorn for the first time. He was hovering over a bowl of fish soup, when one crunched between ...