A version of this story appears in the February 2017 issue of National Geographic magazine. Citrus, in many ways, stands alone. So many cultivated species have come from so few primary ancestors.

We are used to valorising the mango as our ‘national fruit’ and rightly so, because of its all-India profile and many delicious varieties. People even fight about which ones are better.

All present-day citrus trees arose from a common ancestor 15 million years ago that underwent three big waves of evolutionary change to create today’s lemons, limes, kumquats, and oranges, according ...

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