And at the centre of this revelation sits, it seems, birria. “Birria is a stew – almost a sort of soup,” says Zazueta, who hails from Ensenada, Baja California in northern Mexico.

Birria and barbacoa are two types of cooking methods that, while similar at the surface level, are characterized by notable differences. But perhaps most importantly, birria originated in Mexico ...

The birria can be eaten in a bowl like a soup, or in tacos or quesadillas (see Tip). You can make the adobo a day ahead. Heat a frying pan over a medium heat and toast the chillies for 15 seconds ...